These mods are from different websites on the web. Od-Mods does not claim responsability for them, Endorse or Promote them.
Goki Electric Start Kit:
How to install Goki Electric start on a FL250 engine
Courtesy of spinreel.com
Use these mods to improve the saftey of your Odyssey.
Hand Loops - Use store made or home made loops (usualy velcro) that are attached to the steering wheel to put your hand through. This mod keeps the hands on the wheel and during a rollover... the hands on the diver.
Side Bars - a bar on either side of the driver connecing the rear rollcage to the front, with usualy arssome sort of supporting structure in the middle (As seen on the 550 projects). This mod will keep the driver in, add strength, not allow the buggy to crush a driver that rolls and it looks damn cool!
These are basic mods that almost anyone can do, with minimal experience and basic tools. Warning: Some of these basic mods, although simple could potentialy cause damage to riders and equipment. Please do not attempt Modding unless you feel comfortable with it. Mod at your own risk
Reduction Case:
When the Odyssey first came into production they were very much a new breed. And testing was minimal. Onne of the knowen parts to fail in the earlier buggies (1977-1980) was the chain inside the reduction case. This problem can be easily fixed if you replace the stock 1977-1980 chain with the stock chain from the 1981-1984 models.
Airbox and Snorkle:
The airbox and snorkle limit the ammount of air that is availiable to the motor. Anything that can free this up will help, but then you must change your jet in the carb to compensate for more air. When more air flows to the carb, you must increase your jet size to allow more fuel in.
Front Suspension:
Changing the front suspension on the FL250 is fairly straight forward. Simpley take off the old shocks and replace them with a suitable replacment. When your doing this.. check for fatigue and wear on the suspension components.
An easy way to improve your top speed and power is to increase your Power to Weight ratio. If you cannot get more power, the only way to change your power to weight ratio is to lighten the load.
Now, you can either quit drinking beer and eating burgers... OR you can do some mod's to your buggy, gaining power and keeping the burgers and beer!
The important thing with weight reduction mods, is that you cannot sacrifice strength. Identifing parts that are non essential and can be removed without damaging the vehicle. Below are weight mods that can be done, their problems and difficulty level.
Warning: Some of these mods, could potentialy cause damage to riders and equipment. Please do not attempt Modding unless you feel comfortable with it. Mod at your own risk
Weight Reduction Mods list:
Remove Fenders - Easy
Pros: Lightens buggy slighty (every little bit counts)
Cons: Prepare to get muddy!
Fiberglass Seatpan - Intermediate
Pros: Lightens Buggy
Cons: MUST have knowledge in fiberglassing. This part must be strong.
Custom Rollcage - Hard
Pros: Allows you to change rollcage, to make it stronger and lighter than the stock cage.
Cons: You MUST have welding skills and proper equipment or cage may fail, Or you must take you cart to a trained professional welder, with the proper equipment.
These mods are to add strength to your buggy. They can already stand quite a beating.. but when you upgrade with some of the more extreme mods, a little more strength never hurt annything. Remember.. these mods most likely involve welding. Proper equipment and skills are needed to do an effective job.
Front Suspension: Weld triangular peices in the J-Arms as Gussets to add strength
Frame: As with the front suspension.. you can add triangular gussets in the corners of the frame to add strength and stiffness.
Rollcage: the addition of sidebars that surround the driver (as seen on the 550 projects) not only protect, but greatly strengthen the cage.
The Following mods are fairly drastic and require skill, knowledge and the proper equipment. If not done incorrectly they could cause damage to your machine and possibly lead to serious injurie or death. Mod at your own risk
One of the hardest, and most effective modifaction is a motor swap. This mod is not for anyone trying to save money, or looking for a beginers project. Be prepared for lots of hours in the shop and plenty of money put into it (more so if you must use a welders services).
Things to Remember:
Lets face it, FL250 odysseys are old. And were designed for the 250 2-stroke engine, with a maximum speed of around 50mph. If you are planning to put a bigger, more powerful motor in and are looking to reach speed over 50mph you MUST check your berings, any gearing (such as in the reduction case), your rims and tires before you begin your mod. Check these parts for wear, damage or any other faults that could result in failure.
The Honda FL250 Odyssey is rear heavy. Remember this when putting a heavier and more powerful motor in it. The font end will be easily lifted off solid ground
How To Start:
Find your desired motor (snowmobile motors are popular since they can almost be directly dropped in and use the stock drive system) If at all possible get your motor running BEFORE you put it in so that its easier to work on.
Figure out everything your going to need to make that motor work in the odyssey frame such as: Sprockets, Chains, Throttle cable, fuel tank, brake systems, Clutch and Gear shifter (if you use a motorcycle engine), Electronics, Frame mods, Roll cage mods, weight distribution, suspension, tires, axles, berings etc.
If you dont have the proper equipment yourself you must find a welder/fabricator that is qualified to do the job of making motor mounts, welding them in, aligning drive systems and making sure everything is balanced.
Lets Begin:
First things first,Take your air box off and muffler. Then Remove your FL250's Fuel tank. This is done by removing your rear axle from the frame and bringing it out through the bottom.
With the fuel tank out of the way, you can start gutting the rear of the kart. Take the two bolts holding the motor to the motor mounts off. Now you can easily move the engine backwards and remove the drive belt with no fuss. Disconnect any wires/cables attached to the main motor body. You should be able to pull the entire motor out of the back, carb and all.
You can now remove the motor mount easily.
Take the coil and CDI box off and store it somwhere safe incase you wish to use the old motor for another application or would lke to sell it.
WOW! that was easy, now you have an empty cavity, begging to be filled by a excesively large motor!
THIS IS UNDER CONSTRUCTION